There are four main means of transportation people use to cover the 10 miles of snowy road to Granite Creek Hot Springs in the wintertime: snowmobile, sled dogs, cross-country skis and fat tire bike.
Last week, my friend Joe Hill and I chose fat bike.
Although we are both avid cyclists (Joe owns the Sled Shed ski and bike shop in Rexburg), neither of us owns a fat bike. So, we rented bikes for the day. Many bike shops in the area rent bikes. Joe picked up a pair from the Outdoor Resource Center at Brigham Young University-Idaho, and we met early in the morning in Ririe for our drive to the winter trailhead a few miles south of Hoback Junction, Wyoming.
I have been up this beautiful mountain canyon a few times in the summer, but this was my first winter visit. The road is left unplowed in the winter and open only to snow travel. From trailhead to hot springs is about 1,000 feet of elevation gain, but there are several ups and downs both directions. The views along the way are typically spectacular with mountains in the distance and a pretty stream at the bottom of the canyon. Many sections of stream were frozen over with nearly a foot of ice.
If you talk to most fat bike riders, one of the biggest worries is the condition of the snow on the planned route. The week prior to the ride, the temperatures were bitter cold, hovering between minus 10 and 15. But when we decided to ride, the temperatures climbed to 30-plus degrees. If the snow is too soft, tires sink in and wheels feel like they are riding through glue.
At the trailhead we found scores of snowmobiles lined up in a large parking area. Most were commercially guided machines to take clients to see the sights. Near the trailhead and up a hill is a large barn announcing sled dog tours for hire.
We parked and sat for a minute discussing what to wear and not wear on the ride. The truck thermometer said it was 35 degrees. I was worried the snow was going to soften up and make riding challenging.
We dressed like we were cross-country skiing with several layers. I started riding with a beanie on under my bike helmet and a buff over my face. There was a slight breeze that made things chilly.
As we started down the road, there was that initial thrill you get of starting off on an adventure. We found that riding on the outer edge of the road proved to have the most solid snow. In the middle, snowmobiles had churned up the surface, making fat tires sink in. I noticed that the sled dog teams also chose the edge of the road.
After about a half-mile, which included a steady uphill section, we stopped and peeled off a layer of clothing. I also took off my beanie and buff. Despite shedding layers, I could still feel my under layers getting damp with sweat.
“I can tell I haven’t been getting much riding in this winter,” Joe said as we ground up another hill. Add to that a new baby that doesn’t sleep through the night and his fitness was not where he would like it.
Riding a fat bike over snow is a novel experience. We putted along at about an average speed of 7 to 8 mph. We stopped about every 15 or 20 minutes to snap photos and eat snacks.
After about an hour and 20 minutes, we came to Granite Creek Falls. We stopped and walked down to the creek and took photos. A couple was sitting in a natural hot pool on the other side of the creek below the falls. Unfortunately, to use that hot spring, you must walk through the frosty water.
The developed hot springs are about another 10 minutes of riding up the road. Here, the Forest Service operates a pool with changing rooms and benches. There is a caretaker on-site to take your $8.
At first we were the only ones in the pool, then a group of people who arrived by sled dog joined us in the pool. One talkative woman said they were a group of Rhodes scholars doing a travel trip as part of their program. She listed off several other trips they had taken in the area: Yellowstone National Park’s Old Faithful, the National Elk Refuge, cross-country skiing in West Yellowstone, Mont., riding the gondola at Snow King Ski Resort and marching around downtown Jackson, Wyo.
The typical reaction to seeing a person enter the pool was first an expression of uncertainty that quickly turned to smiles and, “Oh, this is nice!”
After a bit more than 30 minutes in the pool, we dressed, walked past the curious sled dogs and began riding down the road. By this time (early afternoon) a few things had changed. The snow was a bit softer and our bikes were acting more squirrelly and a strong head wind also fought against us. We had one major thing in our favor — the way back was mostly downhill. It ended up taking only about an hour to return back.
After my first go at fat biking Granite Creek, this trip might make the annual regular winter trip list.
For more information about Granite Creek Hot Springs, go to https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/btnf/recarea/?recid=71639.
Jerry Painter is a longtime East Idaho journalist and outdoorsman.
