At least once a winter we make our annual pilgrimage to Bear Gulch and ski along the canyon rim to Lower Mesa Falls.
About every other year we get to feeling our oats and ski to the Upper Falls and back (nearly 10-mile round trip).
Bear Gulch is a popular winter destination about 17 miles east of Ashton on Highway 47 (also known as the Mesa Falls Scenic Highway). The highway is plowed up to the trailhead. Beyond that, it is groomed for snowmobiling and cross-country skiing.
The winter trailhead parking area can be packed with mostly snowmobilers and a few cross-country skiers on weekends. The trailhead is a Park ’N Ski trailhead.
This past week my sweetheart and I went on a weekday and almost had the place to ourselves. There were only a couple of vehicles in the football-field-sized parking lot.
The other nice thing about going in the middle of last week was that about 3 to 4 inches of snow had fallen the night before and improved the skiing experience.
On the downside, the temperatures were chilly, especially with a slight breeze. We had to wear buffs over our faces and robust beanies to fend off the single-digit temperatures.
The trail leaves the parking lot and follows up the road for about a third of a mile. On the left, look for a trail sign announcing a ski trail and telling snowmobilers to keep out.
This ski trail roughly parallels the highway but follows the rim of the deep Henry’s Fork canyon. Because the trail winds along the canyon rim, it adds more mileage and ups and downs to the distance than simply following the highway.
On our visit, the trail was ungroomed and snowed over. Because the base beneath the new snow was mostly hard-packed, the skiing was still quick and pleasant. Following the trail isn’t too hard — just look for the blue diamond markings along the trees every 30 yards or so.
After about a quarter of a mile along the canyon rim, we were treated to the best reason to ski this trail in the wintertime: astounding beauty. The views along this trail are some of the best in all of Idaho, and that’s saying a lot.
With the sun out, bright blue skies, snowy trees and the sparkling waters of Henry’s Fork far below, there were moments of pausing and soaking in the sights.
For the most part, the trail is fairly easy. There are a few short whoop de doos that may give beginning skiers pause.
We stopped at the Lower Mesa Falls overlook area for our usual snacks and thermos of hot herbal tea.
From the parking lot to the Lower Mesa Falls overlook along the rim trail is about 3 miles one way.
If you continue on to the Upper Mesa Falls, expect to add another 1.25 to 1.5 miles, one way depending on the route you take. If you want a shortcut going back, just ski back along the road. This is not recommended on busy weekends because of all the snowmobile traffic ripping along at mach speed.
The Upper Mesa Falls is an impressive sight in the wintertime and a major stop-off for most snowmobilers.
It can be a major commitment for skiers because the side route down to the falls is all downhill, meaning you’ll have to ski back up the road on the way back.
If you’re looking for maps and directions for this and other nearby ski trails, you can find them in the guidebook “Eastern Idaho Sweet Spots” or online at the Caribou-Targhee National Forest website.
Jerry Painter is a longtime East Idaho journalist and outdoorsman.
